Sweet, Salty, and Fermented

Episode Narrative

In a world defined by shifting landscapes and burgeoning civilizations, the Tang Dynasty, flourishing from 618 to 907 CE, emerges as a pivotal chapter in Chinese history. This period marked not only the zenith of artistic and cultural expression but also an intriguing evolution in agricultural practices, particularly regarding staple crops. As the dawn of the 6th century arose, the region known today as North China began to witness a remarkable transformation. Wheat, once a minor crop, began its rise to prominence, gradually overshadowing millet as the cornerstone of the Chinese diet. This change was driven by ratcheting demands for flour-based foods and improvements in agricultural techniques, which would lay the groundwork for a thriving society harnessed by its own agricultural innovations.

Picture the vibrant fields of the Guanzhong Basin in Shaanxi, where the sun spills its golden rays on diverse crops. By the late 7th century, multi-cropping systems came into play here, weaving a tapestry of foxtail millet and wheat, supplemented by an assortment of crops such as broomcorn millet, soybeans, adzuki beans, and barley. Yet, rice remained on the fringes, its utility limited in comparison. This agricultural complexity not only reflects a deepening connection to the land, but also conveys the resilience of communities as they adapted their diets to the changing demands of a growing population.

Understanding the depth of this transformation requires looking back at archaeological evidence from sites like Matengkong, stretching back to the late Warring States and Qin Dynasty periods. These findings reveal that the cultivation of wheat was already taking root, yielding results that echoed those of foxtail millet — an indication that dietary staples were shifting, acquiring new dimensions of richness and variety. As more grains took hold, the everyday realities of life began to change. Food became more than sustenance; it became a reflection of cultural identity and social relations.

As we step into the heart of the Tang Dynasty, we see soaring agricultural land and an intricate irrigation network emerge. The Heihe River Basin, for instance, was undergoing rapid agricultural expansion. This evolution saw its cultivated area rise from just over six hundred square kilometers to nearly six thousand four hundred by the time the People's Republic of China established its boundaries. As canals stretched, so too did the ambitions of the people, who sought to master nature in ways that would ensure survival and prosperity. The careful orchestration of water management was not merely a technical feat; it signified a profound relationship between human effort and environmental stewardship. Improvements to existing irrigation systems reflected a society evolving in complexity and ambition, much like the crops they nurtured.

While agriculture flourished, other aspects of Tang life mirrored this growth. In the stūpa forest at Mount Zhongnan near Chang’an, the intertwining of agriculture and spirituality manifested through changing burial practices. As laypeople began to adopt Buddhist customs, they utilized stūpas not just for sacred commemoration but as echoes of their earthly lives — an intermingling that underscores the connection between the agricultural society and its religious rituals. The essence of life, marked by cycles of planting and harvesting, became part of the narrative surrounding death. Here, too, was the integration of life’s riches and the agriculture that sustained it.

During this period, the establishment of the Bao Gu system within the Tang Code was revolutionary. This system mandated advance medical payments that were bound to the recovery of injured agricultural laborers. A legal framework protecting the agricultural workforce allowed communities to flourish more securely. By ensuring that a laborer could recuperate without the fear of financial ruin, it wove a safety net for a society dependent on its working hands. This discreet layer of legal protection operated behind the scenes, directly linking the health of individuals to the overall productivity of agriculture.

As rice and wheat began to spread southward, it marked a pivotal change, capturing the culinary imagination of Southern China. Citizens of the Yangtze River region, previously associated primarily with rice, gradually incorporated these domesticated grains into their meals. As they reclaimed hilly terrains for agriculture, they turned their gaze toward diversification — a journey invalidated by the weight of tradition but undertaken with the promise of nourishment. The addition of wheat to the deeply rooted culture of rice created a mixed mosaic of flavors and textures in dining tables across the region.

Farther southwest, the Dian settlement in Yunnan exhibited a thriving two-season agricultural approach with the establishment of irrigated rice cultivation. Archaeobotanical evidence reveals intensive farming methods designed meticulously to maximize the yields of their lowland landscapes. Their gardens became realms of productivity, encapsulating the hope and hard work of communities yearning to find their place on the map of history. The ingenuity demonstrated by early farmers — from crop rotation to participatory irrigation systems — renders their achievements undeniably profound.

Meanwhile, the Tang Dynasty found itself in the throes of change concerning other agricultural products, too. With the expansion of tea cultivation, the establishment of a tax system revolving around this revered drink emerged as a boon for the state revenue. The newfound appreciation for tea harbored particular significance. As the military pressures of nomadic empires mounted, agricultural practices shifted to ensure sustenance could withstand these external threats. From tea to more protein-rich sources like soybeans, which began to infiltrate diets as sauces, pastes, and tofu, the palette was diversifying, reflecting a culinary shift that intertwined with the increasing social complexity of towns and cities.

The turn of the 8th century saw the southern Tarim Basin bustling with activity. Trade routes flourished along the Silk Road, connecting communities not just with ideas and goods, but savory experiences. Salted fish and vibrant pickles became staples on tables, sustaining the needs of caravan travelers. The interlacing of trade, flavors, and commodities shaped a world rich with interactions, where preservation techniques became as crucial to survival as planting seeds in the soil.

The Tang Dynasty acted as a crucible for innovation, inviting new crops via touched hands along trade routes. Economic plants like mustard, lettuce, and even exotic fruits like apples and grapes were introduced, paving the way for a variety of culinary practices. The once fabled notion of food directly represents culture gained literal foundations as ingredients traveled across lands, intertwining societies and traditions. The complexities of agriculture began to mirror the multiplicities of human life, each new plant bearing stories of its origins while melding into the fabric of a new homeland.

Simultaneously, the shadows of climate change loomed over the Tang agricultural transformation. Shifts in regional productivity introduced not just competition but cooperation between nomadic and farming groups. Resilience emerged from the chaos, allowing collaborations to blossom, as past tensions morphed into opportunities for sharing knowledge about food systems. Here, agricultural history became a narrative rife with conflicts resolved through shared endeavors, illuminating the very essence of what it means to cultivate life on a shared planet.

As the sun set over the middle Yellow River region by the late 8th century, the cultivation of rice and millet showcased early mixed cropping systems, revealing humanity's innovations rising from humble soil to meet the demands of a burgeoning population. The detailed practices within the lower Yangtze River reflect growing complexity, with barnyard grasses and domesticated rice entering a delicate dance of cultivation. Domesticated rice steadily became the emblematic crop, a testament to human adaptability and the ability to hone in on productivity — a culinary transformation evolving quietly yet deliberately.

As we reflect upon this rich tapestry of agricultural evolution, we are left to ponder: how might the intertwining of sweet and salty, the fermented and the fresh, bind communities together, even today? This era, characterized by its leaps in cultivation, dietary change, and cultural shifts, invites us to consider the legacy of agriculture in shaping our identities. Wheat became the backbone that supported not just a diet, but a civilization — a mirror reflecting the resilience, creativity, and interdependence of all who call a piece of earth home.